How to Identify Counterfeit Morgan Dollars
Important Warning: Morgan Dollars are among the most counterfeited American coins due to their popularity, high values, and precious metal content. Learning to spot fakes is essential for any collector. This guide will help you identify common counterfeits and authentication techniques.
Why Morgan Dollars Are Counterfeited
Morgan Dollars (1878-1921) are prime targets for counterfeiters due to several factors:
- High Values: Key dates like 1893-S, 1895 Proof, 1889-CC can be worth tens of thousands of dollars
- Silver Content: Each coin contains 0.77344 troy ounces of pure silver
- Popularity: Massive collector demand makes them easy to sell
- Complex Design: Intricate details make exact replication difficult but also provide many authentication points
- Large Size: 38.1mm diameter provides enough surface for detailed counterfeiting
- Mintmark Manipulation: Common dates can be altered to rare mint marks
Types of Counterfeits
- Cast Counterfeits: Made from molds, often crude with poor details
- Die-Struck Counterfeits: Made with fake dies, can be very deceptive
- Altered Coins: Genuine coins with added or removed mintmarks
- Transfer Die Counterfeits: Using electroforming or other transfer methods
- Fantasy Pieces: Coins that never existed (wrong date/mint combinations)
- Cleaned/Whizzed Counterfeits: Fakes made to look artificially uncirculated
The Most Counterfeited Morgan Dollars
High-Value Dates Most Often Faked
- 1893-S: King of Morgan Dollars, extremely valuable in all grades
- 1889-CC: Key Carson City date
- 1892-S: Low mintage, high demand
- 1895 Philadelphia (alleged proofs): No business strikes known, only proofs exist
- 1894: Low mintage Philadelphia issue
- 1895-O: Scarce New Orleans issue
- 1901: Low mintage, popular date
- 1903-O: Scarce in higher grades
- 1904-S: Key San Francisco date
- All Carson City (CC) issues: Premium values make them targets
Common Mintmark Alterations
- Adding CC: Common date with CC mintmark added (1878-CC, 1889-CC, etc.)
- Adding S: 1893 altered to 1893-S, 1892 to 1892-S, 1904 to 1904-S
- Removing Mintmarks: 1895-O or 1895-S altered to 1895 "proof"
- Changing Mintmarks: D changed to CC, O changed to S, etc.
Physical Examination: Weight and Dimensions
Correct Specifications
- Weight: 26.73 grams (412.5 grains)
- Diameter: 38.1mm (1.5 inches)
- Thickness: Approximately 2.4mm at rim
- Composition: 90% silver, 10% copper
- Edge: Reeded with approximately 185-190 reeds
Weight Test
The most basic test for silver content and authenticity:
- Use Digital Scale: Accurate to 0.01 gram minimum
- Acceptable Range: 26.7-26.8 grams (allowing for wear)
- Too Light: Likely base metal or silver-plated fake
- Too Heavy: May be wrong composition or cast counterfeit
- Heavily Worn Coins: May weigh slightly less (26.5-26.7g) but under 26.5g is suspicious
Size and Thickness
- Use digital calipers to measure diameter
- Cast fakes often slightly smaller or larger
- Thickness variations indicate casting or wrong planchet
- Edge reeding should be sharp and evenly spaced
The "Ping" Test
Silver coins produce a distinctive sound:
- Balance coin on fingertip
- Gently tap edge with another coin or metal object
- Genuine: Clear, bell-like ring lasting several seconds
- Fake: Dull thud or very short ring
- Limitation: Cleaned, damaged, or environmental damage can affect sound
- Note: Not conclusive alone but useful preliminary test
Examining Surface and Strike Quality
Luster and Surface Characteristics
- Genuine Mint Luster: Rotates in "cartwheel" pattern, appears to flow across surface as coin is tilted. Created by metal flow during striking.
- Artificial Luster: Static, looks painted or sprayed on. Created by whizzing (wire brushing) or chemical treatment.
- Cast Surface: Grainy, porous texture under magnification. Lacks flow lines from striking.
- Transfer Die Surface: May show orange peel texture or unusual granularity.
Flow Lines
Genuine Morgan Dollars show metal flow patterns from striking:
- Radiate outward from center toward rim
- Visible in fields under proper lighting
- Caused by metal flowing during the striking process
- Cannot be replicated in cast counterfeits
- Use raking light (light at shallow angle) to see them clearly
Die Polish Lines
- Fine, raised lines in fields from die polishing
- Normal on genuine coins, especially proofs and early strikes
- Should look natural and appropriate to the die state
- Counterfeiters sometimes try to add these but they look wrong
Strike Characteristics
- Sharpness: Details should be crisp where unworn
- Weakness: Genuine coins often weak on Liberty's ear and eagle's breast; fakes may be weak in wrong areas
- Consistent Depth: Relief depth should be consistent; cast coins often have varying depths
- Edge Strike: Should show evidence of collar die (straight edge with sharp transition to reeding)
Design Details: Obverse (Liberty Head)
Liberty's Portrait
- Hair Strands: Should be sharply defined individual lines, especially in curls. Cast fakes often have mushy, indistinct hair.
- Face Details: Eye should have sharp detail, not look blank or simplified. Cheek should show proper contours.
- Ear: Often weakly struck even on genuine coins, but should show some definition. Completely absent ear is suspicious unless wear is evident elsewhere.
- Coronet/Diadem: "LIBERTY" on headband should be sharp, especially on higher grade coins. Letters should be properly proportioned.
- Wheat and Cotton Wreath: Individual wheat kernels and cotton bolls should be distinct. Leaves should show veining.
Stars
- 13 stars around border, 7 on left, 6 on right
- Each star should have 5 distinct points
- Points should be sharp and evenly spaced
- Cast fakes often have blob-like stars
- Check spacing between stars—should be consistent
Date
- Numerals: Should be sharp and properly formed
- Altered Dates: Look for:
- Inconsistent patina inside numerals vs. surrounding field
- Tool marks from re-engraving
- Slightly different font style between altered digit and others
- Raised metal around altered areas
- 8s altered to 3s (1898 to 1893, etc.)
Designer Initial
- "M" for George T. Morgan appears at base of Liberty's neck
- Should be small but distinct
- Proper shape and position
- Some counterfeits omit it or place it incorrectly
Design Details: Reverse (Eagle)
Eagle
- Breast Feathers: Critical authentication point. Should show distinct rows of feathers in layered pattern. Each feather should have definition. Cast fakes typically show mushy, ill-defined feathers.
- Wing Feathers: Individual feathers should be visible with proper gaps between them. Look for sharp quill lines within each feather.
- Tail Feathers: Seven distinct tail feathers should be visible fanning out. Count them carefully—wrong number is a red flag.
- Legs and Talons: Should show proper anatomy with scales on legs and defined talons. Cast coins often have simplified talons.
- Head: Eye should be visible as small dot. Beak should be properly shaped and sharp.
Arrows and Olive Branch
- Arrows: Three arrows clutched in eagle's left talon (viewer's right). Should be distinct and properly bundled.
- Olive Branch: In right talon, should show leaves and olives. Each leaf should have proper shape.
- Ribbons: Binding the symbols should show folds and movement
Wreath
- Combination of agricultural products: wheat, corn, cotton, tobacco, etc.
- Each element should be botanically correct
- Wheat kernels should be individually defined
- Cotton bolls should show proper structure
- Leaves should show veins and proper shapes
- Cast fakes often simplify these complex details
Legends and Motto
- "UNITED STATES OF AMERICA": Evenly spaced around top
- "IN GOD WE TRUST": On ribbon above eagle
- "ONE DOLLAR": At bottom
- "E PLURIBUS UNUM": On ribbon across center
- All lettering should be sharp and properly spaced
- Check for font inconsistencies or poorly formed letters
Mintmark Authentication
Mintmark Locations and Characteristics
Mintmark appears on reverse, below the ribbon, between "D" and "O" of "DOLLAR":
- No Mintmark: Philadelphia (most common for many years)
- S: San Francisco
- O: New Orleans
- CC: Carson City (premium values, heavily counterfeited)
- D: Denver (1921 only)
Detecting Added Mintmarks
-
Microscopic Examination: Use 10x-20x magnification to check for:
- Tool marks or scratches around mintmark
- Raised metal or burrs from engraving
- Patina differences (new marks look different from original surface)
- Wrong font style compared to genuine examples
- Position slightly off from correct placement
- Size and Shape: Compare to known genuine examples. Mintmarks varied by year and die, but each should match documented examples.
- Depth: Added mintmarks are often too shallow or too deep compared to genuine
- Serif Details: Authentic mintmarks have specific serif characteristics; added ones often get these wrong
Carson City (CC) Specific Checks
CC mintmarks are most often added because of high premiums:
- CC mintmark should have specific size and spacing between letters
- Compare to certified genuine CC examples
- Check for evidence of removed mintmark underneath
- CC coins typically have different surface characteristics than Philadelphia coins from same year
- Reference VAM varieties—genuine CC coins have documented die characteristics
Removed Mintmarks
- Used to create rare Philadelphia dates or "proofs"
- Look for:
- Depression or disturbance where mintmark was
- Re-polished area appearing different from surrounding field
- Lack of normal wear pattern in that location
- Luster interruption
Edge Examination
Reeding
- Count: Approximately 185-190 reeds (vertical ridges)
- Sharpness: Should be evenly spaced and well-defined
- Consistency: Reeds should run perpendicular to faces
- Cast Fakes: Often have indistinct, mushy, or irregular reeding
Edge Seams
- Cast Counterfeits: Often show seam where mold halves met
- File Marks: Counterfeiters may try to remove seams, leaving file marks
- Genuine Coins: No seams; edge formed by collar die during striking
Edge Thickness
- Should be consistent around entire coin
- Cast fakes may have variations
- Check for added rim or built-up areas (signs of casting or alteration)
Advanced Authentication Techniques
Specific Gravity Test
Determines metal composition by measuring density:
- Genuine 90% silver/10% copper: Specific gravity = 10.34
- Method: Weigh coin in air, then suspended in water. Calculate: weight in air ÷ (weight in air - weight in water)
- Tolerance: Should be 10.30-10.38 (allowing for minor impurities and wear)
- Different Metals: Fakes in other alloys will have wrong specific gravity
Magnet Test
- Silver is not magnetic; genuine Morgan Dollars should not be attracted to magnets
- Steel core fakes will be attracted
- Limitation: Non-magnetic metals (copper, zinc, aluminum) can also fool this test
- Use strong rare-earth magnet for best results
X-Ray Fluorescence (XRF)
- Non-destructive test identifying metal composition
- Used by professional grading services
- Expensive equipment but available at some coin shops
- Confirms silver content and purity
- Can detect silver-plated fakes
Die Variety Attribution
- VAM Varieties: Van Allen-Mallis catalog documents die varieties. Each die combination has unique characteristics (die scratches, clashes, doubling, etc.)
- Match coin to documented VAM variety for that date/mint
- Counterfeiters cannot replicate specific die markers
- Particularly useful for expensive dates
- Resources: vamworld.com and VAM reference books
Ultraviolet (UV) Light
- Some repairs, alterations, and surface treatments glow under UV
- Added mintmarks may show different fluorescence
- Artificial toning often fluoresces
- Genuine coins should show consistent appearance
Chinese Counterfeits
The Modern Threat
Since the 2000s, high-quality counterfeits from China have flooded the market:
- Die-struck rather than cast, making them more deceptive
- Correct weight and size in many cases
- Proper silver content in some cases (still illegal counterfeits)
- Widely available on online marketplaces
- Sometimes sold as "replicas" or "copies" but enter market as genuine
Identifying Chinese Fakes
- Surface Quality: Often too perfect, artificially smooth, or with wrong luster pattern
- Design Details: Subtle differences from genuine—wrong font, spacing issues, design element positions slightly off
- Color: May have slightly different color than genuine silver coins
- Toning: Artificial toning that looks painted on or too uniform
- Die Characteristics: Won't match documented VAM varieties
- Weakness Pattern: Weak in wrong areas (genuine Morgans weak on specific points due to die design)
Red Flags for Modern Counterfeits
- Suspiciously low price for rare date
- Seller has multiple high-value rare dates available
- Coin looks "too good" for the grade claimed
- Listed as "copy" or "replica" in foreign marketplaces
- No provenance or certification
Authentication Resources and Tools
Equipment You Need
- Jeweler's Loupe: 10x magnification minimum, 20x better for detail work
- Digital Scale: Accurate to 0.01 gram
- Digital Calipers: For measuring diameter and thickness
- Good Lighting: Bright LED light, preferably adjustable
- Reference Books: Morgan Dollar guides with high-quality images
- Magnet: Strong rare-earth magnet
- Optional: UV light, microscope, specific gravity testing setup
Reference Materials
- "A Guide Book of Morgan Silver Dollars" by Q. David Bowers
- VAM Catalogs: Van Allen-Mallis die variety references
- PCGS CoinFacts: Online database with high-res images of genuine coins
- NGC Coin Explorer: Similar resource from NGC
- ANA Authentication Resources: American Numismatic Association materials
- ANACS Photograde: Standard for grading and authentication
Professional Authentication
For expensive coins, always get professional authentication:
- PCGS (Professional Coin Grading Service): Industry leader, encapsulates and grades coins. Guarantee of authenticity.
- NGC (Numismatic Guaranty Company): Second major service, equally respected
- CAC (Certified Acceptance Corporation): Verifies quality within grade, applies sticker to PCGS/NGC holders
- ANACS: Longtime authentication service, focuses on varieties and problem coins
When to Get Professional Authentication
- Any coin valued over $500
- All key dates and rare mintmarks
- Coins being purchased sight-unseen
- When buying from unknown sellers
- Before selling expensive coins (buyers expect certification)
- If you have any doubts about authenticity
Buying Safely
Purchase Guidelines
- Buy Certified: For valuable coins, buy PCGS or NGC certified examples only
- Know the Seller: Buy from established dealers with good reputations
- Return Privileges: Ensure you can return if authentication fails
- Reasonable Prices: If too good to be true, it probably is
- Examine Carefully: Always examine raw coins carefully before buying
- Get Second Opinion: Have expensive raw coins checked by expert before purchase
Red Flags When Buying
- Seller reluctant to provide high-resolution images
- Price significantly below market value
- Seller has many rare dates available
- No return policy
- Vague or suspicious provenance
- Pressure to buy quickly
- Seller discourages third-party grading
- Claims coin is "too good to grade" or makes excuses for not certifying valuable coin
Online Marketplaces
- Reputable: Heritage Auctions, Stack's Bowers, Great Collections (certified coins)
- Exercise Caution: eBay (many fakes, but also legitimate sellers—check feedback carefully)
- Avoid: Sites selling obvious "replica" or "copy" coins that might enter market as genuine
What to Do If You Suspect a Fake
Before Purchase
- Don't buy it
- If from dealer, politely point out concerns (they may not know it's fake)
- Walk away if dealer pressures you or dismisses concerns
After Purchase
- Contact seller immediately if return period available
- Document coin with photos and measurements
- Get professional authentication opinion
- If purchased with credit card, may have fraud protection
- File complaint with appropriate marketplace or authorities if fraud suspected
Reporting Counterfeits
- U.S. Secret Service: Handles counterfeit coin investigations
- Anti-Counterfeiting Educational Foundation: Industry organization fighting fakes
- Marketplace Platforms: Report to eBay, Amazon, etc.
- Local Authorities: For local dealer fraud
Never
- Try to pass it off as genuine (illegal)
- Return it to circulation
- Sell it without disclosure that it's counterfeit
Learning to Authenticate
Develop Your Skills
- Study Certified Coins: Examine PCGS/NGC holders to learn what genuine coins look like
- Visit Coin Shows: Handle many examples to develop "feel" for genuine coins
- Join Coin Club: Learn from experienced collectors
- Take ANA Courses: American Numismatic Association offers authentication classes
- Compare Examples: Study differences between genuine and known fakes
- Focus on Details: Learn the specific diagnostic points for Morgan Dollars
Build Reference Collection
- Acquire certified examples of common dates
- Study die varieties and characteristics
- Keep high-quality reference photos
- Document what genuine coins should look like
Stay Informed
- Follow numismatic news about new counterfeits
- Join online forums discussing authentication
- Read articles about specific fake types
- Counterfeiters continually improve—stay current
Quick Reference Checklist
Every Morgan Dollar Should Pass These Tests
| Test | Genuine | Counterfeit Warning Signs |
|---|---|---|
| Weight | 26.7-26.8 grams | Under 26.5g or over 27g |
| Diameter | 38.1mm | Significantly different size |
| Ping Test | Clear, sustained ring | Dull thud or very short ring |
| Magnet | Not attracted | Attracted to magnet |
| Surface | Flow lines, natural luster | Grainy, porous, artificial luster |
| Details | Sharp hair, feathers distinct | Mushy details, simplified elements |
| Edge | Sharp, even reeding, no seam | Poor reeding, edge seam visible |
| Mintmark | Matches documented examples | Wrong style, tool marks, wrong position |
| Die Variety | Matches known VAM | Doesn't match any documented variety |
Protect Your Investment
Morgan Dollars are wonderful coins to collect, but the prevalence of counterfeits means you must be vigilant. Learn the diagnostic points, invest in proper tools, study certified examples, and don't hesitate to seek professional authentication for valuable coins.
When in doubt, buy certified. The cost of PCGS or NGC certification is small compared to the cost of buying a fake. For common dates in circulated grades, develop your eye and use the tests outlined in this guide.
Remember: if a deal seems too good to be true, it probably is. Patience and education are your best defenses against counterfeits.
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