How to Identify Counterfeit Walking Liberty Half Dollars

Why Walking Liberty Half Dollars Are Counterfeited

Walking Liberty Half Dollars (1916-1947) are frequently targeted by counterfeiters for several compelling reasons:

• High Values: Key dates like 1916, 1916-S, 1917-S Obverse, 1919-D, 1921, and 1938-D can be worth thousands to tens of thousands of dollars
• Silver Content: Each coin contains 0.36169 troy ounces of pure silver
• Iconic Design: Considered one of the most beautiful U.S. coins, with strong collector demand
• Complex Details: Intricate design provides many authentication points but also challenges exact replication
• Mintmark Alterations: Common dates easily altered to rare mintmarks
• Legacy Design: Design revived on modern Silver Eagle bullion coins, maintaining popularity

Types of Counterfeits

• Cast Counterfeits: Made from molds of genuine coins, usually with poor surface quality
• Die-Struck Counterfeits: Created with fabricated dies, can be highly deceptive
• Altered Coins: Genuine coins with added, removed, or modified mintmarks
• Transfer Die Fakes: Made using electroforming or similar transfer techniques
• Struck Copies: Modern replicas that may enter circulation as genuine
• Tooled/Enhanced Coins: Genuine coins artificially improved to appear higher grade

The Most Counterfeited Walking Liberty Half Dollars

High-Value Dates Most Often Faked

• 1916: First year issue, low mintage (608,000), extremely valuable in all grades
• 1916-S: Low mintage San Francisco issue (508,000)
• 1917-S Obverse Mintmark: Rare variety with mintmark on obverse
• 1919-D: Very low mintage Denver issue (1,165,000)
• 1921: Lowest mintage of series (246,000), key date
• 1921-D: Low mintage Denver issue (208,000)
• 1921-S: Scarce San Francisco issue (548,000)
• 1938-D: Low mintage (491,600), highly sought after
• 1919-S: Condition rarity, scarce in high grades
• Early Dates (1916-1921): Generally scarce and valuable

Common Mintmark Alterations

• Adding S: 1916 altered to 1916-S, 1921 to 1921-S
• Adding D: 1919 to 1919-D, 1921 to 1921-D, 1938 to 1938-D
• Removing Mintmarks: 1921-D or 1921-S altered to 1921 Philadelphia
• Moving Mintmark: 1917-S reverse mintmark moved to obverse to create rare variety
• Date Alterations: Other dates changed to 1916, 1921, or 1938

Physical Examination: Weight and Dimensions

Correct Specifications

• Weight: 12.50 grams (192.9 grains)
• Diameter: 30.6mm (1.205 inches)
• Thickness: Approximately 2.15mm
• Composition: 90% silver, 10% copper
• Edge: Reeded with approximately 150 reeds

Weight Test

The fundamental test for silver content and authenticity:

• Use Digital Scale: Accurate to at least 0.01 gram
• Acceptable Range: 12.45-12.55 grams (allowing for minimal wear)
• Too Light: Likely base metal or silver-plated counterfeit
• Too Heavy: Wrong composition or casting artifact
• Circulated Coins: May weigh 12.40-12.50g, but under 12.35g is highly suspicious
• Heavily Worn: Well-circulated examples may be slightly lighter but should still be above 12.30g

Size and Thickness

• Use digital calipers to verify diameter (30.6mm)
• Cast counterfeits often measure slightly off specification
• Thickness variations suggest wrong planchet or casting
• Edge reeding should be sharp, even, and consistently spaced
• Measure multiple points around circumference for consistency

The "Ping" Test

Silver coins produce a distinctive sound when struck:

• Balance coin on fingertip or rest on soft surface
• Gently tap edge with another silver coin or metal object
• Genuine: Clear, sustained bell-like ring lasting several seconds
• Fake: Dull thud or very brief, flat ring
• Note: Cleaning, damage, or environmental factors can affect sound
• Limitation: Useful preliminary test but not conclusive alone

Examining Surface and Strike Quality

Luster and Surface Characteristics

• Genuine Mint Luster: Shows rotating "cartwheel" effect as coin is tilted. Created by microscopic flow lines from metal movement during striking.
• Artificial Luster: Appears static, painted-on, or sprayed. Result of whizzing (wire brushing) or chemical treatment to simulate uncirculated appearance.
• Cast Surface: Grainy, porous texture under magnification. Lacks directional flow lines from striking process.
• Original Toning: Natural patina develops gradually in consistent patterns. Artificial toning looks painted, too uniform, or glows under UV light.
• Proof-like Surfaces: Some early strikes have semi-proof surfaces with mirror fields and frosted devices—should look natural, not artificial.

Flow Lines

Authentic Walking Liberty Half Dollars show metal flow patterns from striking:

• Radiate outward from highest points toward rim
• Visible in field areas under proper lighting (raking light works best)
• Result of metal flowing under extreme pressure during strike
• Cannot be accurately reproduced in cast counterfeits
• More pronounced on well-struck, high-grade examples

Strike Characteristics

• Known Weak Areas: Liberty's left hand, head details, and eagle's leg are often weak even on genuine coins due to high relief design
• Full Details: Well-struck examples show complete hand lines, head details, and full breast feathers—but weakness is normal and not suspicious
• Consistent Relief: Depth should be uniform throughout; cast coins show irregular depths and mushy details
• Edge Strike: Clean transition from field to reeded edge indicates proper collar die strike
• Weakness Patterns: Fakes often weak in wrong areas or uniformly weak

Die Polish and Die Markers

• Fine raised lines in fields from die polishing are normal and expected
• Die cracks, clashes, and breaks are diagnostic authentication markers
• Should appear natural and consistent with documented die states
• Counterfeiters sometimes try to simulate these but they look artificial

Design Details: Obverse (Walking Liberty)

Liberty's Figure

• Overall Pose: Liberty walking confidently toward sunrise (left to right), right arm extended, left arm carrying olive branches. Full-length draped figure in flowing gown.
• Drapery: Flowing fabric should show natural folds and movement. Individual fabric folds should be distinct. Cast fakes typically have simplified, mushy drapery.
• Left Hand/Arm: Extending back carrying olive branches. Often weakly struck even on genuine coins, but should show some definition. Fingers and branches should be visible.
• Right Hand/Arm: Extended forward with hand raised. Hand details often weak on genuine coins due to high relief, but fingers should be somewhat visible when well struck.
• Head and Face: Profile facing right, wearing cap of liberty. Hair should show individual strands flowing behind. Facial features (nose, lips, chin) should have proper contours.
• Legs and Feet: Visible through drapery, showing walking motion. Right leg forward, left behind. Feet should show proper anatomy and positioning.

Sun Rays

• Radiating from left (Liberty's right), suggesting dawn or sunrise
• Should be sharp and well-defined where unworn
• Rays extend from horizon to top of coin
• Cast counterfeits often show indistinct or mushy rays
• Number and spacing should match genuine examples

Legends and Date

• "LIBERTY": Appears at top rim, evenly spaced
• "IN GOD WE TRUST": Small letters at upper right
• Date: At bottom, below Liberty's feet
• Numerals: Should be sharp and properly formed
• Altered Dates: Look for:
  • Patina differences inside numerals vs. surrounding field
  • Tool marks or scratches from re-engraving
  • Different font characteristics between altered and original digits
  • Raised metal or burrs around altered areas
  • Common alterations: 6s to 8s, 3s to 8s, creating 1916, 1921, 1938

Mintmark (1916-1917 Only)

• For 1916-1917, mintmark appears on obverse below "IN GOD WE TRUST"
• 1917-S Obverse: Rare variety, heavily counterfeited
• From 1917 onward, mintmark moved to reverse
• Check for added or altered mintmarks with magnification

Designer Initial

• "AW" monogram for Adolph A. Weinman at lower left, near rim
• Should be small but distinct
• Proper formation and position
• Some counterfeits omit or incorrectly render the monogram

Design Details: Reverse (Eagle)

Eagle

• Perched Position: Eagle perched on rocky crag or mountain peak, wings partially spread, facing left. Majestic, powerful stance.
• Wing Feathers: Should show individual feather definition with proper layering and gaps between feathers. Primary and secondary wing feathers should be distinct. Cast fakes typically show blurred, simplified feathers.
• Breast Feathers: Often weakly struck even on genuine coins, but should show some texture and definition when present. This is a critical grading point.
• Tail Feathers: Should be individually defined, fanning out. Each feather should have proper shape and separation.
• Head and Beak: Sharp, properly shaped beak. Eye should be visible as small detail. Head feathers should show texture.
• Legs and Talons: Grasping rocky perch. Should show proper anatomy with scales on legs and defined talons. Often simplified in cast fakes.

Pine Branch

• Small pine sapling or branch growing from rocky crag below eagle
• Needles should show individual definition
• Branch should have proper botanical structure
• This detail is often overlooked but important for authentication

Mountain/Rocky Crag

• Stylized mountain peak or rocky outcrop
• Should show proper contours and texture
• Relationship between eagle, perch, and pine branch should be correct
• Cast fakes often simplify this detail

Legends and Denomination

• "UNITED STATES OF AMERICA": Around upper rim
• "E PLURIBUS UNUM": Below eagle, above denomination
• "HALF DOLLAR": At bottom
• All lettering should be sharp with proper spacing and formation
• Check for font inconsistencies or malformed letters
• Letter size and spacing should be consistent with genuine examples

Mintmark (1917-1947)

• From mid-1917 through 1947, mintmark appears on reverse
• Located below "E PLURIBUS UNUM," between eagle and denomination
• No Mintmark: Philadelphia
• D: Denver
• S: San Francisco
• See mintmark authentication section for detailed checking procedures

Mintmark Authentication

Mintmark Locations

• 1916-1917 (early): Obverse, below "IN GOD WE TRUST"
• 1917 (mid-year change) through 1947: Reverse, below "E PLURIBUS UNUM"
• Transition occurred mid-1917, creating collectible varieties

Detecting Added Mintmarks

• Microscopic Examination: Use 10x-20x magnification to check for:
  • Engraving tool marks or scratches around mintmark area
  • Raised metal, burrs, or displaced metal from punch or engraving work
  • Patina differences (added marks appear fresher than original surface)
  • Wrong font style, size, or shape compared to genuine examples
  • Positioning slightly off from documented correct placement
  • Depth inconsistent with other design elements
• Size and Shape Verification: Compare carefully to certified genuine examples. Mintmark sizes and styles varied by year and mint but should match documented standards.
• Serif Characteristics: Authentic mintmarks have specific serif details that added ones often get wrong or omit entirely.
• Strike Characteristics: Mintmark should show same strike quality as rest of coin

Removed Mintmarks

• Used to create more valuable no-mintmark (Philadelphia) dates like 1921
• Look for:
  • Slight depression or disturbance where mintmark was located
  • Re-polished or re-tooled area appearing different from surrounding field
  • Unnatural wear pattern in that specific location
  • Interruption in natural luster flow or patina
  • Under high magnification, evidence of metal displacement, smoothing, or tool marks
  • Field texture different in mintmark area

The 1917-S Obverse Mintmark

• Transitional variety with mintmark on obverse (early 1917 style)
• Very valuable and heavily counterfeited
• Most are either:
  • 1917-S reverse mintmark coins with "S" added to obverse
  • 1917 Philadelphia coins with "S" added to obverse
  • Complete die-struck counterfeits
• Requires expert authentication for any claimed example
• Study certified examples to learn correct mintmark characteristics
• Check for die markers that identify genuine obverse mintmark dies

Moved Mintmarks

• Some fakes have mintmark removed from reverse and added to obverse (or vice versa)
• Examine both sides carefully for signs of mintmark work
• Look for disturbances in both potential mintmark locations

Edge Examination

Reeding

• Count: Approximately 150 reeds (vertical ridges)
• Sharpness: Should be evenly spaced and well-defined
• Perpendicular: Reeds should run at right angles to coin faces
• Consistency: Spacing and depth should be uniform around entire edge
• Cast Fakes: Often show indistinct, mushy, or irregularly spaced reeding
• Altered Coins: May show disturbance in reeding from mintmark alteration work

Edge Seams

• Cast Counterfeits: Often display visible seam where two mold halves joined
• File Marks: Counterfeiters may try to remove seams, leaving file marks or scratches
• Genuine Coins: No seams; edge formed by collar die during striking process
• Examine entire edge circumference carefully under magnification

Edge Uniformity

• Thickness should be consistent around entire circumference
• Cast fakes may show thickness variations or warping
• Look for built-up areas, pits, or added material (casting defects or alterations)
• Proper collar strike creates clean, uniform edge with sharp transition to reeding

Advanced Authentication Techniques

Specific Gravity Test

Determines metal composition by measuring density:

• Genuine 90% silver/10% copper: Specific gravity = 10.34
• Method: Weigh coin in air, then suspended in distilled water. Calculate: weight in air ÷ (weight in air - weight in water)
• Acceptable Range: 10.30-10.38 (allowing for minor impurities and wear)
• Different Alloys: Fakes made from other metals will show incorrect specific gravity (lead: 11.34, copper: 8.96, zinc: 7.14, etc.)
• Equipment: Requires accurate scale and proper water displacement setup

Magnet Test

• Silver and copper are not magnetic; genuine coins should not be attracted to magnets
• Steel core or nickel-containing fakes will be attracted
• Limitation: Some non-magnetic base metals (copper, zinc, aluminum) can also pass this test
• Use strong rare-earth (neodymium) magnet for best results
• Not conclusive alone but useful as quick preliminary check

X-Ray Fluorescence (XRF)

• Non-destructive test that precisely identifies metal composition
• Used by professional grading services (PCGS, NGC, CAC, ANACS)
• Equipment expensive but available at some coin dealers and shows
• Confirms silver content and purity with high accuracy
• Can detect silver-plated base metal fakes
• Can identify specific alloy composition and detect anomalies

Die Variety Attribution

• Documented Varieties: Many Walking Liberty Half Dollars have documented die varieties with distinctive characteristics (doubled dies, repunched mintmarks, die cracks, etc.)
• Match coin to known die variety for that date/mint combination
• Die scratches, clashes, cracks, and other markers are diagnostic
• Counterfeiters cannot replicate specific die markers accurately
• Especially valuable for authenticating expensive key dates
• Resources: Cherry Pickers' Guide, PCGS CoinFacts, NGC Variety Plus

Ultraviolet (UV) Light Examination

• Some repairs, alterations, and surface treatments fluoresce under UV
• Added or altered mintmarks may show different fluorescence than surrounding metal
• Artificial toning often glows brightly under UV light
• Epoxy, putty, or filler materials used in repairs will fluoresce distinctly
• Genuine coins should show consistent appearance under UV
• Use both longwave (365nm) and shortwave (254nm) UV for thorough examination

High-Resolution Photography

• Take detailed macro photos of suspicious areas
• Compare to certified examples in online databases
• Photos can reveal details not easily seen with naked eye
• Useful for getting expert opinions from online communities

Chinese Counterfeits

The Modern Threat

Since the 2000s, sophisticated counterfeits from China have become a major concern:

• Die-struck rather than cast, making them much more convincing
• Often correct weight and dimensions
• Some contain actual silver content (but still illegal counterfeits)
• Widely available on international online marketplaces
• Often marketed as "replicas" or "copies" but enter market as genuine
• Quality has improved dramatically in recent years
• Can fool casual collectors and even some dealers

Identifying Modern Chinese Fakes

• Surface Quality: Often too perfect, artificially smooth, or with wrong luster pattern. May have slightly different texture than genuine silver surface.
• Design Details: Subtle differences from genuine coins—wrong fonts, spacing issues, design elements in slightly wrong positions or proportions.
• Color: May have slightly different color tone than authentic silver coins, sometimes too white or with odd tint.
• Toning: Artificial toning that appears painted on, too uniform, or in unusual patterns. Often glows under UV light.
• Die Characteristics: Won't match any documented die varieties or known die states.
• Weakness Patterns: Weak in wrong areas, or uniformly weak. Genuine coins have characteristic weakness on Liberty's hand and eagle's breast.
• Edge Quality: Reeding may be slightly different in count, sharpness, or character.
• Fields: May lack proper flow lines or show unnatural surface texture.

Red Flags for Modern Counterfeits

• Price significantly below market value for the date and grade
• Seller has multiple rare dates or high-grade examples readily available
• Coin appears "too nice" for the claimed grade or asking price
• Listed as "copy," "replica," or "commemorative" on foreign websites
• No certification from PCGS, NGC, ANACS, or other reputable service
• Seller reluctant to provide detailed, high-resolution images
• Seller refuses to allow examination before purchase
• Generic holder or suspicious-looking certification

Authentication Resources and Tools

Essential Equipment

• Jeweler's Loupe: 10x magnification minimum, 20x or 30x better for detailed work
• Digital Scale: Accurate to 0.01 gram minimum
• Digital Calipers: For precise measurement of diameter and thickness
• Good Lighting: Bright LED light, adjustable for raking light examination
• Magnet: Strong rare-earth (neodymium) magnet
• Reference Books: Walking Liberty guides with high-quality photographs
• Optional: UV light (both longwave and shortwave), microscope, specific gravity test setup

Reference Materials

• "A Guide Book of Walking Liberty Half Dollars" by Bruce Fox
• "The Complete Guide to Walking Liberty Half Dollars" by Bruce Fox
• PCGS CoinFacts: Online database with high-resolution images of genuine coins and variety information
• NGC Coin Explorer: Comprehensive reference with photos, data, and variety information
• "The Cherrypickers' Guide to Rare Die Varieties": Documents valuable varieties and authentication markers
• ANA Resources: American Numismatic Association authentication materials
• Online Forums: CoinTalk, Coin Community, PCGS Forums for expert advice

Professional Authentication Services

For valuable coins, professional authentication is essential:

• PCGS (Professional Coin Grading Service): Industry-leading service, encapsulates and grades coins with authenticity guarantee. TrueView imaging available.
• NGC (Numismatic Guaranty Company): Equally respected major grading service with excellent reputation for authentication.
• CAC (Certified Acceptance Corporation): Verifies quality within grade, applies green or gold sticker to PCGS/NGC holders. Adds value and confidence.
• ANACS: Longtime authentication service, specializes in varieties and problem coins. Good option for details-grade coins.

When to Seek Professional Authentication

• Any coin valued over $200-300
• All key dates (1916, 1916-S, 1917-S Obverse, 1919-D, 1921, 1921-D, 1921-S, 1938-D)
• Any 1916-1921 date in any grade
• High grade coins (AU50 and above for common dates, any Mint State for key dates)
• Coins purchased sight-unseen or online from unknown sellers
• Before selling expensive coins (certification significantly increases marketability)
• When buying from unfamiliar sources
• Whenever you have doubts about authenticity
• Rare varieties like 1917-S Obverse mintmark

Buying Safely

Purchase Guidelines

• Buy Certified: For valuable dates and high grades, purchase only PCGS or NGC certified examples
• Know Your Seller: Buy from established, reputable dealers with verifiable track records and good reputations
• Return Policy: Ensure clear return privileges if coin fails authentication
• Market Prices: If price seems too good to be true, it almost certainly is. Know current market values.
• Careful Examination: Always thoroughly examine raw (uncertified) coins before purchasing
• Expert Opinion: Have expensive raw coins verified by expert before finalizing purchase
• Payment Protection: Use payment methods with buyer protection (credit cards, PayPal) when possible
• Documentation: Get receipt, certificate of authenticity (if available), and provenance information

Red Flags When Buying

• Seller refuses or is reluctant to provide high-resolution images of both sides and edge
• Price significantly below established market value for date and grade
• Seller has numerous rare dates or high-grade examples readily available
• No return policy or very restrictive return terms
• Vague, suspicious, or non-existent provenance
• Pressure tactics to buy immediately or "last one available" claims
• Seller discourages or refuses third-party grading submission
• Claims coin is "too valuable" or "too good" to submit for certification
• Poor, vague, or limited seller feedback/reputation
• Generic holders or suspicious-looking certification labels
• Seller reluctant to answer specific questions about the coin

Online Marketplace Considerations

• Highly Recommended: Heritage Auctions, Stack's Bowers, Great Collections, Legend Rare Coin Auctions (primarily certified coins with strong guarantees)
• Exercise Caution: eBay (many fakes present, but legitimate sellers exist— research seller thoroughly, check feedback carefully, look for certified coins)
• High Risk: International marketplaces, especially those selling "replicas" that may enter market as genuine
• Avoid: Sellers explicitly marketing "copy," "replica," or "commemorative" coins
• Local Coin Shows: Generally safer as you can examine in person, but still exercise caution

What to Do If You Suspect a Fake

Before Purchase

• Do not complete the purchase
• If dealing with reputable dealer, politely share concerns (they may be unaware it's counterfeit)
• Walk away if dealer is defensive, dismissive, or pressures you despite concerns
• Request additional documentation or professional certification
• Ask for return privileges if you decide to purchase for authentication

After Purchase

• Contact seller immediately if within return period
• Document coin thoroughly with photographs (both sides, edge, suspicious areas)
• Record all measurements (weight, diameter, thickness)
• Obtain professional authentication opinion from PCGS, NGC, or ANACS
• Credit card purchases may have fraud protection—contact card issuer
• File complaint with marketplace platform if purchased online
• Consider legal action for significant amounts if seller refuses refund
• Keep all documentation (emails, receipts, photos) for potential claim

Reporting Counterfeits

• U.S. Secret Service: Federal agency responsible for investigating counterfeit coin cases
• Anti-Counterfeiting Educational Foundation (ACEF): Industry organization dedicated to combating counterfeits
• Marketplace Platforms: Report to eBay, Amazon, or other selling platforms
• Local Law Enforcement: For cases involving local dealers or significant fraud
• Better Business Bureau: For dealer disputes and consumer protection
• State Attorney General: Consumer protection division for fraud cases

Never

• Attempt to pass counterfeit as genuine (illegal and unethical)
• Return it to circulation or sell without full disclosure that it's counterfeit
• Destroy evidence before reporting if fraud or significant money is involved
• Accept excuses like "old family collection" without proper verification

Learning to Authenticate

Develop Your Skills

• Study Certified Coins: Examine PCGS/NGC certified examples extensively to learn what genuine coins look like in various grades
• Attend Coin Shows: Handle multiple examples to develop "feel" for authentic coins. Talk to dealers and experienced collectors.
• Join Numismatic Organizations: American Numismatic Association (ANA), local coin clubs. Learn from experienced collectors and attend educational programs.
• Take Education Courses: ANA Summer Seminar, other numismatic courses covering authentication techniques
• Compare Examples: Study differences between genuine coins and known counterfeits (some dealers keep examples for educational purposes)
• Master Diagnostic Points: Learn the specific authentication markers for Walking Liberty Half Dollars
• Practice with Commons: Start by authenticating common dates before moving to expensive key dates

Build Reference Collection

• Acquire certified examples of common dates for study and comparison
• Learn die varieties and characteristics specific to Walking Liberty series
• Maintain high-quality reference photographs of genuine coins
• Document authentic coin characteristics systematically
• Compare different grades to understand wear patterns
• Study different strike qualities (weak vs. strong strikes)

Stay Current

• Follow numismatic news about newly discovered counterfeit types
• Participate in online forums discussing Walking Liberty authentication
• Read articles and alerts about specific counterfeit threats
• Subscribe to newsletters from major grading services (PCGS, NGC)
• Counterfeiting techniques constantly evolve—maintain current awareness
• Follow ACEF alerts about new counterfeit discoveries

Use Online Resources

• PCGS CoinFacts and NGC Coin Explorer for comparison photos
• Online forums for expert opinions on suspicious coins
• YouTube channels dedicated to coin authentication
• Social media groups focused on Walking Liberty Half Dollars

Quick Reference Checklist

Every Walking Liberty Half Dollar Should Pass These Tests

Key Points to Remember

• Liberty's hand and eagle's breast are often weakly struck even on genuine coins
• 1916-1921 dates are particularly valuable and heavily counterfeited
• 1917-S Obverse mintmark is rare and extensively faked
• Mintmark location changed mid-1917 from obverse to reverse
• When in doubt, buy certified or get professional authentication